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One of the best things you can install on your car to improve your burn-out and starting line consistency is to install a line-lok device. During the 2000 season, we installed a Hurst Roll Control system on our 1990 Mustang GT to improve the consistency of our burnouts. We really didn't have any intention to use the line-lok at the starting line, but it can be done, should the need ever present itself. Below is a drawing (click on the drawings for a larger view) of the stock brake line arrangement on our '90GT. Basically, the left-front is fed directly from the master cylinder while the right-front and both rears are passed through the proportioning valve. For proper line-lok installation, we want BOTH front brakes directed through the roll control solenoid for uniform hold when the system is activated.
Probably the trickiest part of the installation is gathering up all the required fittings. The problem is that the master cylinder uses European ISO flare fittings while the roll control and proportioning valve use standard SAE double flare fittings. It'll probably take more than one trip to the parts store to get the correct adapters, fittings and tubing. In terms of tools, I'd really recommend a good quality (e.g. Craftsman) set of flare wrenches, and a basic hand-operated tube bender. Cheap flare wrenches aren't worth your time and money as you'll only end up with rounded off fittings and brake line leaks. I'd also recommend a can of penetrating oil such to loosen the corrosion on old fittings.
The wiring for the solenoid is pretty simple. The ground (black) wire coming off the solenoid can be taken directly to a good body ground such as one of the mounting bolts for the solenoid itself. The source (red) wire gets tied through the momentary switch to a good 12-volt switched source. The solenoid can draw as much as 5 amps depending on make & model, so I recommend finding a higher amperage source and using an in-line fuse to limit the draw of the solenoid. If you plan on using the line-lok off the starting line, you'll want to locate the switch somewhere comfortable so that you can work it into your starting line routine. Some people prefer a shifter mounted momentary button (one the ball or end of T-handle) while others like to work the switch off their left hand. I've seen people tie the switch into everything from the horn button on the steering wheel to a switch mounted under the clutch pedal. Do whatever makes you comfortable.
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