4/20/08

 

CRT Track Rentals at SMP!

Monday July 21st.  The rental is from 9:00am to 3:00pm and the cost is $55.00 per car. We will only be taking 40 cars for this rental and all racers must pre-register by calling the shop. Call
419-668-4151 for more information.  Sign up soon!

 

4/20/2008

The May 5th track rental has been CANCELLED due to lack of interest.  Don't let this happen to our next rental, scheduled for July 21st.  Call today to reserve your slot!

 

 

12/25/2007

NHRA Chassis Certification Weekend at CRT Performance!

Plan on running 9.99 or quicker?  Get your chassis certified by Joe Lease, an official NHRA inspector, on Saturday February 2, 2008  & Sunday February 3, 2008.  Inspections are by APPOINTMENT ONLY. Call Nettie at 419-668-5555 to reserve your time slot.

 

6/16/2007

The new and improved CRT Performance customer forums are up and running.  Thanks for bearing with us as we have tried to put an end to the spammers that ruined our old board.  Click here to go to the new forums.

 

2/20/2007

CRT Performance is now an authorized distributor for Aerospace Components, makers of awesome brake kits and other billet fabrication! Call us today for your application and killer pricing.

 

 

 

CRT Performance appreciates all that our servicemen and servicewomen do to preserve our way of life.  Present your service ID or veteran's card for a special discount from CRT Performance.  Thank you for all you do!

 

 

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Ford Motor CompanyCompression Ratio is an important variable in building a performance engine. In general, higher compression ratios mean more horsepower. Compress the air/fuel mixture into a smaller volume (increasing compression ratio) and you've got a mixture that's easier to ignite, burns quicker and more completely, and hence delivers more power. Increasing the compression ratio can generally be accomplished a number ways such as using domed pistons, shaving (milling) the heads, using a thinner head gasket or changing the compression height of the piston.

 

Competing in a rules class like we have over the years, we are always left looking for ways to get every last bit of horsepower out of the engine.  Since we're limited to producing horsepower in the normally aspirated fashion, one of the best ways to increase the output is by increasing the compression in the motor. Its not uncommon to hear of compression ratios in excess of 13.0:1 in normally aspirated classes such as Street Warrior or Pure Street, and as high as 17.0:1 or more in classes like Street Bandit or Hot Street. This is a large increase compared to a stock engine with  a compression ratio somewhere around 9.0:1. 

 

The Street Bandit racers can get their high compression ratios through the use of domed pistons.  These are pistons with a raised combustion surface, often CNC cut from digitized molds of the their combustion chambers.  The domes fill the combustion chambers on the compression stroke, minimizing the volume between piston and head (otherwise known as the quench).  In contrast the Street Warrior class is held, by rule, to a true flat-top piston.  Since we don't have the domes to reduce the quench, we increase the compression by reducing the free volume above the piston, i.e. by reducing the size of the combustion chamber.  A Street Warrior motor goes to great lengths to reduce the effective quench by any means possible.  This includes raising the top ring land on the piston, minimizing the valve reliefs, avoiding valves with dished tips, and by aggressively milling the head.  Its not uncommon to see a Street Warrior racer take a brand new set of heads and mill 0.150" or more off them right away, often cutting the heads right down to the valve seats.  Properly done, a set of 60 or 65 cc heads can be milled down to 38 or 40 cc's. Just to illustrate how concerned we are about the total quench volume, we literally avoid unnecessary valve jobs since a simple valve job can sink the valve 0.003" to 0.005" further into the head, thereby increasing the quench volume by that much!

 

I rigged up this compression ratio calculator using information from the Ford Racing Performance Parts catalog. The catalog provides a great deal of information on the various Ford platforms, but if you're building a custom engine your particular dimensions will vary. I only included the components for a flat-top piston with valve reliefs...if you're into domed or dished pistons you're on your own.

Cylinder Bore Diameter - e.g. 4.000, 4.030, 4.060 in
Stroke Length - e.g. 3.000, 3.500 in
Connecting Rod Length - e.g. 5.090, 5.780, 5.956 in
Gasket Bore Diameter - 4.100 is standard small block in
Gasket Thickness - varies from manufacturer to manufacturer in
Compression Height - distance from CL of wrist pin to top of piston in
Deck Height - e.g. 8.206, 9.503, 9.206 in
Piston Diameter at Top Ring Land - usually runs 0.003" to 0.005" less than bore diameter in
Distance from Top of Piston to Ring Land - may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer in
Total Valve Relief Volume - usually 4.6cc for four reliefs or 2.3cc for two reliefs but custom pistons will vary cc
Combustion Chamber Volume - consult your head manufacturer cc

There are a few rules of thumb to be observed with your typical OEM Ford, open combustion chamber style heads:

 

  • Flat milling of a head will reduce the combustion chamber 1.0 cc for approximately every 0.007 of an inch removed.
  • Every point of compression (e.g. from 10.0:1 to 11.0:1) will net 3% to 5% horsepower improvement. The better the volumetric efficiency of your engine combination, the better the return on the increase in compression.
  • When checking piston-to-valve (P-V) clearances, a conservative builder will recommend maintaining 0.100" on the intake valve and 0.150" on the exhaust valve.  Greater clearance is warranted on the exhaust valve since the piston is always 'chasing' the exhaust valve motion. Always check the clearance of the valve to the radius of the relief eyebrow in addition to the depth of the eyebrow.  Often times the valve will contact at the edge of the eyebrow before it bottoms out in it.
  • When aggressively milling heads, be sure to check the spark plug to piston clearance.  On heavily milled heads, indexing washers or installing the plugs with the piston below the TDC position may be required to avoid the piston contacting the electrode.
  • Milling the heads lowers the position of the intake port relative to the block deck so the intake will need to be milled for the ports to align properly.  A good starting point is to mill the sides of the intake the same amount as the heads have been milled and mill the valley pan rails of the intake 1.5 times what the heads were milled.  The intake bolt holes will also need to be elongated towards the intake centerline for proper fit.

 

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